Why is my skincare pilling?

 

We’ve all been there. After spending 10 minutes on your skincare routine, you reach the last layer only to find everything rolling on your skin. There are several reasons why skincare products roll on the skin, a phenomenon also referred to as pilling. Here are a few reasons and tips to ensure a smooth application.

Reason 1: You’re not exfoliating enough

Healthy skin has a cellular turnover rate of 28 days. So the life cycle of a skin cell is about one month, at which time cells die, move to the surface of the skin, and fall off or are shed. Our skin’s cellular life cycle naturally slows down as we grow older. Now, imagine oily skin with a cell turnover rate of 28 days.

 

The sebum produced acts like glue, reducing the ability for keratinized (dead) cells to fall off as they should. This can lead to a buildup of dead cells on the skin that, in turn, can impair product penetration, resulting in products pilling when applied.

Dry skin is also affected, as the dried skin cells on the surface of the skin also prevent products from penetrating the skin, causing the same pilling phenomenon. We know that when we exfoliate, it increases the cell turnover rate, making this step extremely important to ensure prolonged skin health and product penetration.

 

The sebum produced acts like glue, reducing the ability for keratinized (dead) cells to fall off as they should. This can lead to a buildup of dead cells on the skin that, in turn, can impair product penetration, resulting in products pilling when applied. Dry skin is also affected, as the dried skin cells on the surface of the skin also prevent products from penetrating the skin, causing the same pilling phenomenon. We know that when we exfoliate, it increases the cell turnover rate, making this step extremely important to ensure prolonged skin health and product penetration.

 

Reason 2: You’re layering your skincare products the wrong way

When applying skincare products, we should apply aqueous products first, superposing the more lipidic products, however, it is important to allow aqueous products to penetrate well before proceeding with more lipidic products. As we all know, oil and water do not mix, however, once the water-based product is fully absorbed lipidic products can be applied over it.

 

There are oils and other ingredients, such as silicones, that come in the form of oils and gels, that absorb into the skin and become occlusive. These are meant to remain on the surface to protect the skin and increase the barrier function. If we would apply a foundation on top, for example, this would create friction that causes pilling.

Products that contain mineral SPF, such as zinc and titanium dioxide, can also pill, as they are physical barriers meant to remain on the surface of the skin to reflect the sun’s rays. When makeup is superposed or when friction occurs, pilling will also occur.

 

There are oils and other ingredients, such as silicones, that come in the form of oils and gels, that absorb into the skin and become occlusive. These are meant to remain on the surface to protect the skin and increase the barrier function. If we would apply a foundation on top, for example, this would create friction that causes pilling.

Products that contain mineral SPF, such as zinc and titanium dioxide, can also pill, as they are physical barriers meant to remain on the surface of the skin to reflect the sun’s rays. When makeup is superposed or when friction occurs, pilling will also occur.

 

Reason 3: Some ingredients are more prone to pilling

Silicones are very prone to pilling, as they leave a film on the skin that reduces product absorption, and so is applying oil-based and water-based products together. When reading skincare product labels, you may notice that most creams are aqueous-based, whereas many serums are oil-based. Read the labels and apply water-based products and oil-based products together, or ensure that any product you apply on your skin is completely absorbed before superposing another product, to mitigate the chances of pilling.

Reason 4: Your skin is dehydrated

Severely dehydrated skin can also be problematic, as product absorption is diminished, thereby increasing the chances of pilling. Imagine a dry sponge that has not yet been used.

 

If we put a drop of food colouring on it, the colour will initially remain on top, but when it finally penetrates the sponge, the colour will remain concentrated in one spot. However, if the sponge is humid when applying food colouring on it, the colour will be rapidly absorbed and spread throughout the sponge.

Using a treating mist will affect the skin much the same way water acts with a sponge. Misting the skin before applying any product, oil or water-based, will assist in hydrating the skin and increase product absorption.

 

If we put a drop of food colouring on it, the colour will initially remain on top, but when it finally penetrates the sponge, the colour will remain concentrated in one spot. However, if the sponge is humid when applying food colouring on it, the colour will be rapidly absorbed and spread throughout the sponge.

Using a treating mist will affect the skin much the same way water acts with a sponge. Misting the skin before applying any product, oil or water-based, will assist in hydrating the skin and increase product absorption.

 

Reason 5: Product penetration is obstructed by superfluous hair

Product penetration can be obstructed due to excessive superfluous hair. Dermaplaning can be helpful as it is often used to exfoliate and remove hair on the skin, providing a double benefit. If dermaplaning is not an option, it is recommended to apply skincare products in upward movements on the face as this will help to lift the hair and encourage product penetration.

How to fix product pilling?

To summarize:

  • Exfoliate your skin regularly, not only to avoid pilling but also to maintain skin health.
  • Use like products with like products, oil with oil and water with water. If combining a water-based product with an oil-based product, apply the water-based product first and allow it to completely penetrate before applying the oil-based product.
  • Avoid products with a high concentration of silicone.
  • Ensure the skin is well hydrated.
  • Remove excess superfluous hair.

Taking these steps will allow you to say goodbye to pilling forever.

Written by KAREN ASQUITH - DIRECTOR OF EDUCATION AT G.M. COLLIN