What it is: Also known as ascorbic acid, vitamin C is one of the most requested antioxidants that fight the damage induced by oxidative stress present in the environment. This all-star, multitasking ingredient harnesses free radicals to reduce their damaging effect on the skin. It also assists in minimizing the appearance of fine lines, wrinkles, and pigmentation spots, while evening out the complexion, boosting the skin’s brightness and improving its vitality.

Who can benefit from it: All skin types can benefit from vitamin C, especially in the summer months when many of us are spending more time outdoors, as increased sun exposure can increase free radical formation in the skin.

When to use it: Vitamin C can be applied morning and/or evening. However, morning application is the most important, especially when spending time outdoors.

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What it is: The development of peptides was a game changer for skincare. Peptides are chains of amino acids that are the “building blocks” of proteins in our body. It is important to include amino acids in our diets to allow our bodies to construct the various proteins required to both repair and make new cells. In skincare, the peptides used are categorized by their actions: signal peptides, neurotransmitter peptides, carrier peptides, and enzyme inhibitor peptides are all used to minimize the appearance of different signs of ageing on the skin.

Who can benefit from it: Good for all skin types and conditions, as peptides are both effective and gentle.

When to use it: Can be used morning and evening.

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What it is: This sought-after ingredient does more than just hold 1000 times its weight in water. Hyaluronic acid naturally occurs in the body. It is a polysaccharide that resides in all connective tissues and the extracellular matrix in the skin. Varying molecular weights are used in skincare, low molecular weights penetrating deeper than higher molecular weights. Hyaluronic acid can be found in various forms in skincare products, such as hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid, sodium acetylated hyaluronate, sodium hyaluronate and hyaluronic acid. This multifunctional ingredient reduces the appearance of wrinkles and redness on skin while visually improving its elasticity, dermatitis, and eczema.

Who can benefit from it: All skin types and conditions.

When to use it: Can be used morning and evening.

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What it is: Retinol is a natural form of vitamin A that is widely used to reduce the appearance of wrinkles and sun damage. Retinol products encourage cell turnover. They, therefore, accelerate the skin’s natural exfoliation process.

Who can benefit from it: Retinol is available in varying concentrations. Hence, consulting your skincare professional is important, to ensure that the formulation is suited for your specific skin type and conditions.

How to use it: Although retinol can contribute to healthier looking skin, it can be stimulating and it make the skin more susceptible to sun damage. Consequently, precautions need to be taken when using retinol. First-time users should initially apply retinol every other night or every third night, for the first week, to avoid overstimulation of the skin, then every day for the following weeks. It is also important to apply a mineral SPF 25 or higher every morning while using retinol and in the weeks that follow, to reduce the risk of sun damage.

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What it is: Niacinamide, also known as Vitamin B3, is an ingredient of choice for acneic skin, whose popularity has reached new heights due to its effectiveness and versatility. Niacinamide minimizes the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, assists with the skin barrier, visibly improves the skin’s texture and discoloration, as well as minimizes the appearance of inflammation and enlarged pores.

Who can benefit from it: All skin types and conditions.

When to use it: Can be used morning and evening.

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What it is: This family of lipids falls under the category of sphingolipids. As we mature, the cells in our skin are not held together as tightly as they were when we were younger. The spaces present between the cells allow moisture to escape. This phenomenon is known as transepidermal water loss (TEWL). Ceramides act like the mortar between bricks. They reinforce the skin’s natural barrier to reduce TEWL and preserve skin hydration.

Who can benefit from it: Ceramides leave a non-oily veil on the skin with an incredible silky finish, making them a much loved must-have for all skin types.

When to use it: Can be used morning and evening.

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What it is: Although Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHA) and Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHSA) are not new ingredients, they are both effective and revered. They are often used in combinations to treat various skin types and conditions. AHA, such as glycolic and lactic acid, is water-soluble whereas BHA, such as salicylic acid, is oil-soluble.

Who can benefit from it: The combinations of acids used are dependant on the skin condition being treated. Salicylic acid has remained a gold standard for oily, acneic skin due to its oil solubility and can be used alone or in combination with other acids. AHA’s are used in formulations to treat fine lines, wrinkles, skin discolorations, solar elastosis, and other signs of skin ageing.